Do you know how many sushi restaurants there are in Tokyo versus Kyoto? During one of my culinary tours, a participant asked for sushi restaurant recommendations in Kyoto, which led me to conduct extensive research. I already knew Tokyo had far more sushi restaurants, but I hadn’t realized just how few options were available in Kyoto. Naturally, the larger population in Tokyo results in more sushi restaurants, but it’s not just about numbers. Many listings include casual take-out and conveyor belt sushi spots. In this article, I will use "sushi" specifically to refer to counter-seated sushi restaurants that serve hand-held nigiri sushi. Here, I share my discoveries through research, experience, and historical knowledge.
The History of Sushi in Tokyo
When you think of sushi, you likely imagine Edo-mae sushi, which originated in Tokyo. Formerly known as "Edo," Tokyo was the birthplace of hand-held nigiri sushi. In the 18th century, Edo's population exceeded that of London, reaching over a million residents. As the political and economic center of Japan, the city attracted people from all over the country. This bustling environment helped Edo-style sushi gain popularity. Initially a street food, it later evolved into an established dining experience with many dedicated sushi restaurants.
A major turning point for Edo-mae sushi came in 1923 when the Great Kanto Earthquake devastated Tokyo. With over 100,000 casualties and widespread destruction caused by the city's wooden construction, many residents, including sushi chefs, were forced to relocate. Many returned to their hometowns, bringing Edo-mae sushi with them and spreading it across Japan. This is how Tokyo-style sushi transitioned from a regional specialty to a nationwide phenomenon. While this change didn’t happen overnight, it played a crucial role in making Edo-mae sushi the most iconic sushi style today.
Kyoto’s Unique Sushi Culture
Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto is known for saba sushi (mackerel sushi) rather than Edo-mae sushi. While standalone sushi restaurants are relatively rare in Kyoto, many kaiseki and kappo restaurants, as well as some izakaya, serve mackerel sushi as part of their menus. Saba sushi is also a popular to-go item, so you may find packaged take-out versions in department store food sections.
Kyoto’s geography plays a key role in its sushi traditions. Located inland and far from the ocean, the city of Kyoto historically lacked access to fresh seafood. To address this, Kyoto relied on preserved fish and ingredients transported along the Saba-kaido (Mackerel Road)—a route from the Sea of Japan (present-day Fukui Prefecture) that supplied dried kelp and seafood from Hokkaido, as well as fresh mackerel. Preservation techniques such as curing with salt and vinegar allowed Kyoto residents to enjoy sushi despite their distance from the coast.
I’m not the only one who has noticed the increasing demand for sushi restaurants in Kyoto, especially as tourism continues to rise. Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants like Kikunoi have even opened sushi establishments in Kyoto. I’m curious to see how they adapt sushi to fit Kyoto’s unique dining culture. As I write this in 2025, the sushi scene in Kyoto is still evolving, and by 2035, there could be significantly more sushi restaurants. However, at present, most Japanese tourists don’t visit Kyoto with sushi in mind for lunch or dinner.
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Photo：Saba Sushi
Conclusion
If you’re visiting Japan for the first time, Tokyo remains the ultimate destination for sushi, with thousands of sushi restaurants specializing in Edo-mae sushi. However, if you find yourself in Kyoto, don’t expect the same sushi culture as in Tokyo. Instead, take the opportunity to try saba sushi, a Kyoto specialty with deep historical roots. You may also come across temari-sushi, a small round-shaped sushi that has gained popularity in Kyoto. Nobu referred to it as 'sushi bon-bon' in his cookbook. If you’ve taken our sushi class, you may recall making them yourself!
Kyoto offers a unique dining experience where sushi is often served as part of elaborate traditional meals rather than as a stand-alone dish. When traveling, it’s always best to explore local favorites rather than sticking to what is familiar. Japanese cuisine outside Japan remains somewhat limited, so keeping an open mind—and palate—will enhance your culinary adventures. Enjoy your journey!